The Dreaded Minivan in Maui

Honolua Bay, Photo by: Desiree Bilon

To my horror the only vehicle available for rent was a Dodge Caravan – A MINIVAN. What irony! What mockery! From the time I obtained my learner’s license at age 14, I had a strong distaste for minivans. Where this loathing came from is somewhat of a mystery. Perhaps it was something I had heard others say and picked up on.  Or maybe it was something that I came up with on my own after assessing the general behavior of minivan drivers on the road. I certainly wasn’t born despising minivans; it had to be learned.

When I lived in Italy, minivans were considered “cool” and they were luxury.  I laughed at my Italian friends and explained that where I grew up in Canada minivans were anything but cool; they were the epitome of suburban life, a symbol of being locked into the system, the rat race. The Italian rat race was different. They did not work 9-5 jobs and driving around with your family in a comfy car was considered fantastic.

Even after living in Italy for all those years, I still hated minivans. But why? What did they ever do to me? On the whole, I am an open-minded person. I can be flexible in my ideas. I like learning new ways of doing things. I enjoy collecting knowledge, but this was one piece of information that I was not interested in adding to my vault of world understanding.

“Actually there is also a Corvette available. Which one would you like, the minivan or the corvette?” I didn’t like either of them, I told the rental car woman on the other end of the phone. I was even prepared to wait a day or two and asked if any other cars would shortly become available. Negative. I needed a car to go surfing and I need a car to cart my peeps around. Clearly, I was going to have to set my prejudice aside and do the right thing – drive a minivan. In all essence, I didn’t really have a choice. The Corvette could not even be considered an option because it was: a) too expensive b) too small to accommodate the family and c) not suitable for transporting a surfboard, not even a short one.

When we picked “it” up, my heart sank into deep despair. “It” was awful and “it” was burgundy and I was going to have to drive “it” around for a week shuttling my family to and fro. On the way home from picking “it” up, I tried to forget about how bad “it” was and to find something positive within the situation.  At least there were three different reggae stations on the small island. I tried to reason with myself; people who listen to reggae will not care if I am driving a minivan.  I also listen to reggae. Therefore, logically it follows that I should not be bothered by driving the minivan either.

Later that afternoon we, the younger folks, piled into the mini van to explore Kaanapali, a long white sand beach to the north of Lahaina.  In an attempt to console me, my brother’s girlfriend Kael told me “it” was not so bad.  It was new. It was a smooth ride. It was a top of the line minivan. It was something that maybe even a gangster rap star would drive. Perhaps Puff Daddy. Yeah. We christened the van in a fit of laughter, “The Puff Daddy”.

Size-wise The Puff Daddy was ideal. There were nine in our group. My older brother had rented a white 4 door Toyota Yaris and between the two of us we could cart our peeps around the island, convoy style. If we were seven or fewer, we could all travel together in The Puff Daddy comfortably even with my surfboard. I should have been happy or at least not upset. I could just chuck my board in – no seat lowering, no angling, no rearranging, and certainly no roof racks. But my deep-seeded dislike for minivans would not dissipate. I tried to laugh it off, but to no avail. Every time we pulled up to a traffic light I wanted to hide, to crawl under the high tech, motorized, extremely comfortable seat.

On one occasion we drove up the coast to D.T. Fleming Beach in convoy. Before deciding on whether I would surf there, I wanted to check out one more spot first —the famous Honolua Bay. Nobody was interested in accompanying me;, Troy and Kael had already been, and Brett, Lauren and her sister Jenna really liked the beach we were at and did not want to go in the car anymore. Understandable. I would go by myself up to Honolua Bay, no problem, but I could not bare the thought of rolling up to one of the best surf breaks in the world in the minivan.

It took some clever convincing on my part to get Troy, the reluctant older brother, to relinquish the keys to his nondescript rental car. As I drove away, my board laid down beside me on the fully reclined passenger seat, I felt great, alive, young, and possibly even cool. I was on my way to Honolua Bay and even though I wasn’t exactly sure where it was, it didn’t matter.

A series of minor curves and dips were the only obstacles I faced on the road to my destination. The views of the ocean, from this high up, made it look even more like something out of a magazine. I took a moment to reflect.  I was in Hawaii, on my way to one of the most legendary surf spots of all time, the sun was shining, I was listening to reggae and life was grand. I am not sure if I would have felt the same in the minivan.

Photo by: Brett Bilon

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Shotgun Wedding Bells Ring in Maui

Photo: Arien Sherman

Gone surfing, I’ll be back in time for the wedding.  I slid the note under the door to my mom’s hotel room.  Instead of sticking around to get ready with mom and the girls, I decided to go for a quick surf.  My brother’s wedding ceremony was set for 11:30AM, at Kapalua Beach about 20 minutes north of Lahaina. I still had time. The waves were small and not great, but it was better than having to smell nail polish and perfume for two hours. When I came back, later than I had planned, mom was stressing. Luckily, I managed to get ready quickly.

The ancient, deep call of the conch shell summoned the bride to be.  Dressed in a simple strapless wedding gown, with an empire waist to hide her belly, Lauren looked the part. My younger brother stood there sweating and squinting in the noonday sun, his white shirt a stark contrast to the blue-green backdrop of ocean and mountains. Brett had originally wanted to get married on top of a mountain or a volcano, but he didn’t seem to mind this coastal setting. In a few minutes the shortest and most beautiful wedding, I had ever seen, was over.

A special dinner celebration was planned for later in the evening. In the meantime, we had to find non-beach related activities so that Laurens hair – loosely pulled back and tied with white gardenias – would not be disturbed. Most of us elected to go for burgers and shakes at the Cool Cat Cafe on Front Street. The newlyweds were still in their wedding costumes, and yet it seemed to fit with the 1950’s décor. The thick vanilla milkshakes were cool and soothing, exactly what we needed to stave off the hunger until the burgers arrived.

Photo: Desiree Bilon

After our leisurely lunch we rallied up our troops and drove over to the Maui Ocean Center.  What a strange way to spend a wedding day, first the diner and now the aquarium. We arrived a bit late and had to hurry, the story of our life. Before entering the open ocean tunnel, we did manage to squeeze in a computerized quiz game in the Marine Mammal Discovery Center and learned that only half of the spinner dolphin’s brain shuts down at a time during a rest period. Tranquility fell upon us from above and on both sides. Sharks, manta rays and an array of fish weaved in and out of one another as if performing a ritual dance.

As we climbed up the stairs and returned to the surface, broad daylight blinded us. We donned our sunglasses and sought out the tide pool for a chance at some hands-on interaction with harmless sea creatures. I held only one, a black sea cucumber that was smooth and cool on my hands. Some of the crew were more adventurous, namely Brett, exchanging one sea creature after another.

An evening of celebration at Merriman’s Kapalua, overlooking the ocean, marked the end of an unforgettable day. As night crept upon us, the air cooled down. It was October and a fine time for a shotgun wedding.

Photo: Arien Sherman

SIDEBAR INFORMATION

When to go?

Anytime! Average temperatures range from 75-85 F (24-29 C). April to November is summertime and warmer and drier than winter from December to March.

How to get there?

Fly into Kahului Airport (OGG), Maui’s main airport. Many airlines offer direct flights. You can also fly into Honolulu International Airport (HNL) on Oahu and then to Maui on a short, 30-minute flight. Ferry service runs daily to and from the nearby islands of Lanai and Molokai.

Getting around

Shuttle, tour bus, taxi, and public transportation are available. Consider renting a car to experience more of Maui.

Things to do and see

Lahaina

45 minutes from the airport, Lahaina was historically a whaling port and in the early 19th century the capital of the Hawaiian Kingdom. It is now a colorful but relaxing town with art, entertainment, restaurants and shopping. Don’t miss the banyan tree in the park.

Iao Valley State Park

For easy hiking and sightseeing, head to Iao Valley located in central Maui, just west of Wailuku. Famous for the iconic 1200 foot Iao Needle (green pinacle rock). Park gates open from 7am to 7pm. $1 for walk-ins, $5 for cars. For a better view, go early when there are fewer clouds.

Maui Ocean Center

Open 365 days of the year from 9:00AM-5:00PM and in July and August until 6:00PM. Tickets $25.50 for adults and $18.50 for kids. Consider buying a weekly pass, a great value for only a few dollars more.  http://www.mauioceancenter.com/

Beaches

Kapalua Bay Beach

20 minutes north of Lahaina, this shallow, golden sand beach is sheltered from the waves, making it an excellent place for the kids and for snorkelling. For the best underwater view, swim up the left hand side of the beach around the rocks. Restrooms available.

D.T. Fleming Beach Park

Named America’s best beach in 2006, the mile-long crescent, white sand beach is a favorite amongst sunbathers, swimmers, and surfers. The surrounding forest offers shade. Picnic facilities and restrooms available.

Makena Beach State Park (Big Beach)

One of Maui largest beaches, this golden sand beach is less crowded than Lahaina and Kaanapali. Just south of Wailea and roughly a 50-minute drive from Lahaina. Great views of the Molokini and Kahoolawe islands. Picnic tables and restrooms are also available.

Accommodation

A wide variety of accommodation is available in Maui: high-end resorts, hotels, bed and breakfasts, and rentals. On the west coast resorts and hotels can be found in: Kapalua, Kaanapali, Lahaina, and on the southern coast in Kihei, Makena and Wailea.

We stayed at Lahaina Shores, right on the beach, a mid-range option with kitchenettes. http://www.lahainashores.com/

Eats

Cool Cat Café has thirteen burgers to choose from, sandwiches and salads also available.  658 Front Street #160 (Wharf Cinema Centre) Downtown Lahaina 808.667.0908 http://www.coolcatcafe.com/

Merriman’s Kapalua, a fine dining restaurant, located on the cliffs in Kapalua Resort serves Hawaiian regional cuisine, 90% of which is locally grown or caught. One Bay Club Place, Lahaina 808.669.640 http://www.merrimanshawaii.com/maui.htm#about

Wedding Photography and Planning

A Paradise Dream Wedding offers several different wedding photography and planning packages. My brother is a photographer himself and chose this service provider because of their high standard of photography. http://www.mauiwedding.net/index.php

General Information

http://www.gohawaii.com/maui

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A Model Town: San Francisco, Nayarit

“San Pancho, San Pancho, San Panchooooo!” sings out the colectivo taxi driver as he circles the main boulevard, in search of additional riders. The door is cranked wide open, and we are going slowly enough for passengers to jog up alongside and leap into the moving mini-bus. We make an abrupt stop and two older Mexican ladies, sweating in the noonday heat and laden with market goods, struggle to climb aboard. The scent of bananas and guayabas creeps into the air as we bump onto highway 200 and race toward our destination San Francisco, affectionately known by the locals as San Pancho.

After 45 minutes of flying down the two-lane highway, windows wide open and hair whipping around, we finally turn off. I breathe a sigh of relief, not just because we are off the highway, but also because I am home in San Pancho. We cruise down Avenida Tercer Mundo, crossing a bright pink bridge with lampposts that remind me of The Lion, The Witch and The Wardrobe. Right around this very spot, I always feel a surge of positive energy.

A two and a half foot Virgen de Guadalupe, nestled into the side of a building, welcomes me from her perch and reassures me: “You belong here.” According to my landlady, Dona Emilia, this area near the highway used to be known as Los Angeles – literally The Angels. The buena vibra of San Pancho begins at the crucero, and does not end until you leave.

Brightly colored buildings line the main street and cordially acknowledge my return. We pass the polo field, shops and homes, the grass soccer field, and turn onto Calle Africa. All the streets in town take their names from third world countries and continents.

San Pancho is a small town with a unique history. Like many other towns along this coast, only a small number of families called this farmland home, living off coconuts, fish and livestock. That all changed in the early 1970s when the Mexican President at the time, Luis Echeverría, came for a visit. Don Luis, too, felt the allure of San Pancho and adopted it as his own.

After building a vacation mansion for his family at the southern end of the beach, El Presidente set about realizing his pet project: a self-sustaining “model town”, an example for the entire third world to follow. Echeverría brought infrastructure to San Pancho: electricity, roads, schools, a university, several factories, and a hospital. His dream was for students from third world countries to study in his model town.

I asked my landlady what the townsfolk had thought about Echeverría taking over. “Cosas buenas y cosas malas,” replied Dona Emilia, daughter of one of the original-founding members of San Francisco. “He took our family’s land but he gave us opportunity.”

When the President’s term ended in 1976, he abandoned San Pancho. The factories shut down in the mid-1980s but the hospital and schools survived and still operate today. Although San Pancho did not become the town that Echeverría had envisioned, it is my model town.

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Bugs versus suffocation

It’s 7:00AM. The sky is still completely dark. I’m up before the sun today because we are supposed to go surfing at another beach, farther away. With the way I’m feeling—run down and achey on the inside—I don’t think I will be going anywhere. Going back to bed is not an option either, so I start my day.

For breakfast, it’s granola and yogurt. I make a cappuccino with the Italian stovetop moka and a handheld milk-frother. Now I am ready to work. I have a lot of research to do for my upcoming surf trip to Sri Lanka. When is the best time to go? Where should I go? What kind of waves can I expect?

Sri Lanka has two surf seasons: one on the southwest coast from November to April and another from May to September on the east coast. The latter is when bigger waves arrive, mostly breaking over reef. From the airport in Colombo to Arugam Bay it looks like 8 to 12 hours by car.  The best way to deal with this kind of journey is to either (a) break it up into smaller chunks, staying in towns along the way or (b) do one overnight haul and hope to get some sleep.  This would not be my first time traveling in an overnight taxi. I distance myself from the computer and start making lunch. My mind wanders back to another nighttime journey, that one in Costa Rica.

We had opted to travel by taxi at night from San Jose to Nosara due to our surfboards and gear. It was already dark by the time our driver Pablo, who looked even younger than we did, picked us up. The first part of the drive was spent chatting; we learned about Pablo’s family and his fiancé. We hugged the mountains as we continued our trip into the night, ascending and descending in and out of valleys. Spanish music played in the background and eventually the steady motion of the van rocked us to sleep.

The pasta nearly boils over, but I manage to catch it just in time. On the menu today is fettucine with fresh pesto. I dine on the patio and even though I am sitting in the shade, it still feels really warm.  My basil plant, after this meal, looks rather scant.  As I walk back inside to make coffee, I wonder how long it will take before there are enough leaves to make another pesto sauce.  While waiting for the coffee to gurgle, I return to my research with renewed energy. Still, I can’t seem to shake Costa Rica from my mind.

It was dark. I could hear the sound of water and I realized we were no longer moving.  Once my eyes adjusted, I could make out that we were in a riverbed. “Pablo, que pasa?”  He explained that we had gotten stuck in the mud, but not to fear because he would get us unstuck.  The three of us piled out of the van and into the night.  Pablo fished out his flashlight and the “gato” and started jacking up the van.  Within five seconds he was covered in mud, yet he didn’t seem to mind. We tried to wedge a series of flat rocks under the tires, in hopes of pushing the van free from the gripping mud, but to no avail. Pablo set off on foot in search of help, but where would he go at this nighttime hour?

I’m finding a lot of information on the Internet about Sri Lanka. This tropical island has distinct wet and dry seasons, and not one but two monsoons seasons.  September looks like a good month for the east coast. I send out a few emails with some remaining questions I still have. I can’t believe it but by the time I finish, the sun is starting to set. Costa Rica is still lingering in my thoughts.

Later that night we spotted Pablo trudging back to the van, his black slacks and white dress shirt caked with dried mud. He relayed the news; one of the nearby farmers would come with his tractor and pull us out at daybreak! Bugs descended upon us, infiltrating the van through the open windows.  We chose bugs over suffocation. We were in for a rough night. Luckily, it was only a few more hours until dawn.

I close my laptop for the day. Before leaving my house, I put on some bug spray. I follow the direction of the setting sun and  I head towards the rocky point on the southern end of my beach. As the sun starts to make its final descent and melt into the ocean, I bring my steps to a stand still. The sky turns from blue to orange then to fuchsia. The last tinge of fire in the sky fades away as I make my way home. I wonder what the sunset will be like on the East Coast of Sri Lanka and if we will get stuck in any riverbeds.

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7 Steps to Finding Italian Pizza, Outside of Italy

Just imagine. You are in a foreign country and you have been eating the local cuisine now for weeks. And while you enjoy the exotic flavors, you would like a bit of a change. Your tummy is calling for something a little more familiar. So what do you do? You go on the hunt for pizza. But since you have eaten pizza in Italy, you cannot settle for just any pizza—you want the good stuff.

Sitting in an “Italian” restaurant, in your country of choice, you order a pizza, a Margherita to be exact. What comes to your table is some sad-looking, thick slab of cardboard drenched in cheese. You are starving so you eat it anyways, but it is disgusting and unacceptable. The crust is too thick and it is soggy. There is so much cheese that you can hardly see the sauce, but maybe that is a good thing because it is looks like ketchup. You don’t want to say anything to the waiter; it isn’t his fault. So you pay the bill and walk away, disillusioned. And your tummy starts to rumble. Has this ever happened to you?

Italians love beautiful places and you can find them almost anywhere in the world, making traditional Italian pizza with local ingredients. If it is a great pizza you seek, look no further. The following steps will aid you on your upcoming quest for a tasty, thin crust Italian pizza.

1. Find an Italian.
Ask an Italian in town where they go to eat pizza. Anybody born in Italy will point you in the right direction. They know where to find the best pizza and will share this information with you. All you have to do is ask. Go on, don’t be shy.

2. Can’t find an Italian? Look at the names of Italian restaurants.
If you are in a bigger city, try to find a phone book. If you are in a smaller town, just ask at your hotel or hostel where the Italian restaurants are located and what they are called. Da Guiseppe or Da anybody is usually a good sign. Try to find places that sound Italian but not too obvious; any place called Romeo and Julietta is probably not a good bet.

3. Study the menu.
What kinds of pizza are available? Is there a Margherita on the menu? If it says extra cheese be forewarned.
What other ingredients do they offer? Mozzarella di bufala, proscuitto di parma, and rucola indicate si this place has potential.

4. Find out if the owner is Italian.
If not, you better keep looking, unless of course they have studied the art of pizza making in Italy.

5. Speak to the owner.
If the owner is around, this is good sign. It means they care about their restaurant. Ask the owner directly what style of pizza they make. Is it Italian thin crust? What do they recommend?

6. Confirm the presence of a wood-fired oven. You should be able to see it when you walk in to the restaurant.
The oven should be wood-fired in order to achieve the extremely hot temperature required for Italian pizza. Some modern-day gas ovens can also reach the desired temperatures but food fired pizza has a slightly different taste.

7. Have a look at a customer’s pizza.
Does it look good? Would you like to eat it? If you can see bubbles on the crust, then you know that at least the crust will be up to snuff.

 

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The Whirlwind

This post is part of my first assignment for Matador U‘s online Travel Writing Course.

My travel addiction started with a grade 9, whirlwind trip to Europe.  I was 14, shy and mostly scared. Packing for trips was something I hadn’t had much experience with in the past. I was convinced that I would be buying a bunch of new European clothes so I severely underpacked, dedicating lots of empty space in my suitcase to accommodate my future wardrobe.  There wasn’t much time for shopping on the first part of the trip; most of our time was spent on the dreaded tour bus. Fortunately my friend Ashley would let me wear whatever she wasn’t using that day-including her spare shoes. At least I had enough underwear to get me through the trip. Needless to say I have never under-packed again. By the end of the trip, with some solid time off the bus and three great days in Florence, Ashley and I considered running away from the tour and “missing” our flight home. Then we would have to spending the rest of our lives in Europe.  But how could we? We were only 14.

The next time I traveled abroad, I was 19 and off to Italy for a second year university course-Italian. This trip changed my life, forever. I came to realize that there wasn’t just one way of doing things or simply one way of perceiving the world. There were numerous possibilities and different avenues to consider and explore. This was the first chance I had to travel by myself, all on my own, even if it was only for a few days. I was still fairly shy and scared but luckily my friend Cindy, whom I had just spent the last six weeks living and traveling with in Italy, was a seasoned female solo traveler. Also known as the “Human Compass”, Cindy had become my guide.  She was older than me and wiser than me and she graciously shared her travel knowledge, including tips on packing.

Most of my travel/live abroad experiences have centered around surfing and taken place in: Australia, Brazil, Costa Rica, Fiji, Italy, Mexico, New Zealand, Nicaragua, Panama, Portugal, and the USA-Hawaii, California and New York. I have also traveled to, but not for surfing, to: England, France, Germany, Spain, Switzerland, and Vietnam. I would like to revisit some of these latter countries but perhaps next time with a surfboard. It is hard to pick favorites from these places.  Each place is different and has something unique to offer.  However, there are some places that stand out more than others, and places I dream of seeing again like Fiji and Italy. A number of places I have never been to also intrigue me, such as India, Indonesia, Japan and Sri Lanka.

Traveling is almost always exciting and never boring. Going to a different place, seeing new people and hearing unusual and unexpected sounds, quenches some thirst deep inside of me. I don’t know where this extreme need for travel came from, perhaps it was that first trip to Europe. Or maybe it is the challenge that  traveling poses. Or perhaps it is the chance learn about yourself and to learn about others. Regardless, I also like traveling because it gives you time to contemplate, consider and reflect but from a very different perspective. Some kind of clarity almost always manages to shine through, both during and after traveling.

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A tale of clumps and chumps

In theory, all beaches in Mexico are public. In reality, resorts and private homes often block off access to the beach and to the waves.

Since we were going to be heading towards the airport, I thought it would be a good idea to go look for waves along the Punta de Mita coast. This exceptional stretch of coast boasts several surf spots–mostly right-hand point breaks–not easily accessible to the public. Trespassing on private property and walking through the jungle are generally required to gain accesss to these spots, unless of course you have the dinero to rent a panga and a captain to drive it.

Gaining access into Veneros always has an element of uncertainty to it. Last year, there was an elderly security guard that usually let me through with the car. The younger guard usually granted permission to enter on foot. Today a different security guard was on duty, manning the gate.

I politely requested access to check the waves, like I always do, but today something went seriously awry. Access denied! Mr. Moustache explained solemnly: “I can’t let you through because recently on one occasion there were a bunch of break-ins; on that same day surfers had been granted permission to enter. All of security got into trouble over the incident and they have really cracked down on us.”

“Oh that’s terrible.” I empathized. “What if we just go to the restaurant and order something and if the waves are good then we’ll go for a surf afterwards.” Hesitantly, Mr. Moustache warned if we didn’t go to the restaurant then security would have to haul us out of there. “No hay problema.” I assured him. He passed over a clipboard for me to write down my name and entrance time. This was the first time I ever had to sign-in at this Veneros.

We cruised along and had to pass through another gate. After parking the car, a different security guard escorted us to the restaurant. Oh no! This wasn’t the restaurant I had been expecting. The restaurant I had in mind was still further down the beach. However, we’d come this far; my brother and I had no choice but to order something. Practically it was free parking in exchange for a menu item at Peppers. How bad could it be?

The sturdy palapa (palm thatched roof) overlooking the ocean offered a spectacular view and I had high hopes of spotting a whale or two. The northwesterly was so strong that it threatened to rip the lime green tablecloths right off the tables. Four older ladies, the only other table under the palapa, were sporting Mexican blankets wrapped around their shoulders in an effort to ward off the cold wind.

“Una limonada para mi, por favor”. Then Troy ordered a large bottle of water. A harsh English rap song, accented with some Spanish lyrics, blared in the background. I retreated to the car to find my jacket and some peace.
On my way back to the restaurant a feeling of unease started settling in. “We tried” was all I could think to console myself. I convinced myself that it would have been too windy at my homespot too. Moreover, I had done a good deed today by giving a couple of Canadian girls, learning to surf, a ride to Punta de Mita. I was actually starting to feel better by the time I returned to the table.

“What is that?” I asked my brother, pointing to the battered fish clumps on his plate that resembled chicken McNuggets more than anything else. ”I thought you ordered the coconut crusted fish filet.”
He replied, “I thought I did too.” We chuckled.
“Is it any good?”
“Not really.”
Just another link of disappointment in the chain of unsettling events that had transpired that day.

Then the bill arrived. It had been a long time since I felt this duped. $94 pesos for a bottle of water! How could this be? There must be some mistake. And the totopos, come off it. Little did I know my brother had ordered the nacho chips while I went to the car. ARRRR. Didn’t he know that touristy places often charge for nachos and salsa, even though any self-respecting Mexican restaurant includes these chips as a gratuity?

I doubled checked the price of the bottle of water with the waiter. ”Es importada” he assured me. It doesn’t matter if it’s imported or not; the same bottle costs about 35 pesos at the Mega grocery store. I didn’t bother to mention this to him–he knows. A large bottle of water at Peppers is probably the same amount of money he earns for a day’s work. Ludicrous!

When I asked my brother if he had anything to contribute he replied:
“I was the victim of the story and your endless obsession of trying to find a place to surf. It was torture.” He then concluded: “There were many exit ramps on that freeway of disaster. Heed the signs, take the exit.”

This trip to Veneros, and consequently to Peppers, has reminded me that when there are waves at home, don’t bother going to look elsewhere. It could cost you.

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The Delicious Power of Creation

I come from a long line of bakers and although no one in that lineage claims to be a professional, baking is in the blood. The baking legacy in my family bridges several generations—a shared tradition that has become my favorite extra-curricular activity. The art of creating something delicious, from a few essential ingredients, boasts an element of power, and requires both precision and intuition. Both, the logical side and the tactile side of baking, appeal to me.

On the logical side, baking demands a certain level of precision. Specifications pertaining to measurements, the order of ingredients, temperature and time must be adhered to in order to achieve the desired result. Adding too much of any particular item, or not enough, can have a disastrous outcome. Temperature, which varies according to each individual oven, also has the potential to severely compromise a culinary creation. In order to succeed at baking, an almost scientific exactitude must be adopted.

The other side of baking, the tactile side, calls upon the five senses to rise up and join in the fun. The sensory experience of baking begins with us seeing the ingredients, one at a time, before they fall gently from our hands into the mix. The beating, frothing and mixing to form the batter echoes in our ears. The smell emanating from the oven announces that our creation is nearly ready. Taste takes over as mouthwatering morsels of sweetness dance on our taste buds. The five senses delight.

Add one cup of sensible and one cup of sensitive, alternating. Baking is essentially the art of mixing science with the senses in order to create something sweet and delicious. Enjoy.

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Transito and Transportes: the Mexican license plate exchange

I just spent the better part of the day at the Delegacion de Transito y Transportes de Nayarit. The first time I went there was a few days ago, on Friday.  I should know better by now that in order to achieve a desired outcome at a government office you must present yourself in person at least twice and perhaps thrice. This particular government office is located about 15 minutes inland from Mezcales, in between Bucerias and Puerto Vallarta.  Luckily my neighbour told me about a secret short cut that you can pick up in Bucerias that will transport you on a beautiful country road that is smoothly paved.  The drive is most pleasant; however, the government office is not.

After some confusion and waiting around for approximately 40 minutes, it was my turn to speak with the person who has been given the title of Delegado. As I walked into this small room I was reminded of a trip in my younger days to the principal’s office, characterized by a sense of fear and anxiety.  After my visit with the Delegado, complimented by a 700 pesos “payment” to expedite certain documents supposedly to Tepic, I was told to return Monday (today) to pick up my new license plates.  “Paying extra” – which was the only option made available to me – somehow made me think that I might be getting a better deal; perhaps there would be less waiting and fewer line-ups.  But no sirree.  Whatever payment I had previously made certainly did not save me from what I ended up enduring today.

Stationed in line outside just before 9am, I was entertained by how people who were supposed to show up for work at 9am simply did not.  The earliest person arrived around 9:05 and the last one came scurrying in at 9:45am.  I like this concept of time in Mexico coupled with an element of uncertainty.  Will people come to work late?  Will they come at all?  After my wait outside of about 10 minutes I progressed to waiting in another line inside, in an attempt to get back into the office of the Delegado – the same Delegado who gladly received my my extra payment, indirectly leading me to believe that I would be the recipient of some sort of “special treatment”.  So far there was no evidence, whatsoever, of any kind of special treatment.

After waiting in line for about 15min outside the Delegado’s office, my feathers started to ruffle. This forced me to cut in line which was achieved by poking my head into the doorway like some little bird.  It seemed pretty fair to me to behave in this manner since I had already waited in the exact same line up on Friday.  In my mind I had already paid my dues, literally, on my previous visit.   I was somewhat waved into the office and my documents magically appeared out of the top-left desk drawer.  The photocopies I had already made early this morning were added to the originals and then the whole pile was reorganized into a specific order (according to what I will never know) before being handed back to me.  I was instructed to go and pay, but at the cashier booth this time.  So far, so good.  I had been successful in cutting down the wait in one line up already.

I waited in a long serpentine line to pay.  It strikes me as somewhat ludicrous that any person should ever have to wait in line just  to fork over their money to someone else.  When I reached the window and it was, in theory, my turn to pay; I was informed that the system was down and that I would have to wait 20 minutos.  Anybody who has spent time in Mexico knows what 20 Mexican minutes really are, so I high-tailed it out of there to run some other errands while I waited for the system to return.

Successfully having ran one errand, I managed to get back into the transit office for noon; it would close at 1pm.  For the second time today, I cut in line.  By that point, this particular line had some 12 people in it.  The liner uppers did not look at all thrilled with me and my antics but I had already waited in this line earlier in the day right as the system was going down.  When I stepped up to the window, eager to pay, I was asked for the license plates which I had somehow forgotten in the car this second time around, due to rushing back to the office for noon.  I was forced to return to the car, back down the outdoor hallway, down the stairs and across the parking lot.  Arrrr.  When I returned to the office, plates in hand, I squeezed my way back into the front of the pay line.  I relinquished my old plates from Jalisco and was shooed over to the next window.  There was something strange about this second window though; it had almost no one in line.

Amazing but true, I stood in front of a lady who did not so much as even acknowledge my presence for some 10 minutes or more.  I duly waited and was finally rewarded by her extracting my money, typing in all of my information into her computer, and then her handing me back a bunch of documents to take next door to photocopy: “One copy of this one, and one of this one too, and then three of the rest of the entire stack.”  Luckily there was no line up  the photocopy shop, just one woman who had over taken the entire counter top with her own copies.  Then for some reason I didn’t have to pay; I don’t know if it was because they don’t accept money or if the girl had forgotten to charge me.  I didn’t ask any questions and headed back to the main office.

For the third time today I cut into a line.  Straight back into the front of the short lineup I went, with the lady who has a hard time noticing people.  She took my copies, the phone glued to her ear, and she gave me a sign – that would for us would indicate a measurement of about an inch but this same sign that in Mexico translates to permiteme un momentito (give me a sec).  Knowing that it would not take a second to do whatever it was she needed to do with my documents, I passed from the front of the line right straight to the back of it with the idea in mind that by the time I got back up to the front of the line they would have done whatever they needed to do with all those photocopies.

The waiting started to get painful at that point.  15 minutes passed.  As luck would have it, the shorter line is often the one that moves slower.  There was this elderly lady behind me, looking rather weak and frail, so I just had to let her go in front of me.  When it was my turn, it was like deja vu all over again.  The office lady was still typing stuff into the computer, not acknowledging my presence, but by this time I knew what to expect and hence didn’t take it to heart. As I was in the midst of toughening up, I glimpsed what appeared to be my documents.

My pile had remained untouched.  While the other office ladies at the back desk proceeded to retrieve my stack of papers and pull my pile apart, separating the various copies and entering who knows what details into the computer, I waited.  And I waited.  And I waited some more.  Finally I was called over to the door over on the far left (as opposed to the window) by one of the desk ladies and she handed me my stack of documents, now separated into two stacks with one for originals and one for copies.  The back desk lady instructed me to go over to Maribel, the girl in the red uniform shirt.  At least Maribel sometimes smiled, things were looking up.

But alas there was another line.  I bit my tongue and tried to smile although I felt like I might pass out from the hunger and the thirst that was attacking my body.  More waiting, although not so much this time, and then finally I was asked to step up and  sign something.  Yippie!  This was a good sign.  Maribel disappeared into the Delegado’s office for a few moments and then reappeared with some nice, new, baby blue license plates from Nayarit.  Hooray!  I don’t have to go back until next year between January and April to pay the renewal on the registration.  Maybe next year things will be different, but I sincerely doubt it.

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Bistrot O Delices

Easy and enjoyable eating
The latest addition to Bucerias, offering modest dining all day long, is the quaint Bistrot O Delices located on Calle Galeana 14A.  A bistro (or bistrot) is akin to a cafe; a small restaurant that serves moderately priced, simple meals in an informal setting.

This amazing little gem, offering delices (delicacies), recently opened up on at the end of last year.  The owners, Sandrine Millan and Jean Dubourg, are originally from the south of France where Jean trained as a Chef.

As you enter, lured by the tantalizing smell that has already captured you from out front, the friendly French owners graciously welcome you.  Dangling from the ceiling are colored paper lanterns, in shades of red and purple.   Spanish salsa music fills the Bistrot, giving it a lounge-like feel.  This place is cool, yet not overdone.

The locale, modern meets madera (wood), is chic and slightly romantic in its own way.  Eight little rustic tables are nestled into a garden oasis, each set with wicker placemats and white cloth serviettes.   A noble tree, rising up out of the terracotta floor, is the centerpiece around which the patio setting has been cast.   White bougainvillea, large green ferns and a dash of other foliage enhance the already relaxed atmosphere.

The menu offers a selection of light and exquisite food.  If salty is what your taste buds are craving, then try the Croque monsieur (an open-faced ham and creamy emmental cheese sandwich) accompanied with a side salad drizzled in oil vinaigrette. Other options include a variety of omelets, quiche, and the recently added panini.  If you desire something sweet, try the Pan du chocolate (a mouthwatering chocolate filled pastry).  Also available are croissants, muffins, and baguettes served with homemade jam.   Another option for the sweet tooth on a hot day is a glace (ice cream with fruit and topping).  Each and every day there is a different plat du jour (French dish) available if you choose to be daring.

Individually wrapped homemade jams (strawberry, apple/coffee, berry mix) are also available for purchase and make a delightful gift.

Open daily from 9:00am-10:00pm

Located at: Calle Galeana 14A  (Half a block up from Marks Bar and Grill, if you are heading east towards the highway)     322 158 0937~bistrototdelices@hotmail.com

To read another piece about the bistro, check out: http://davidlansing.com/?p=4303

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